It was 33 degrees celsius outside in the shade this afternoon so it took seconds to dry.
It tells me I need to do a bit more to the engines.
The rest of the underside is fine as it is, considering it will hardly be seen when the model is ever on display.
Thanks for looking.
More soon...
I like you're work and backstory sir, particularly right now about this resilient cruiser. But there is just one defect however I'm sure either you noticed or not: whatever happened to part 5 may I ask? I'm sure someone else who watches this blog will be wondering the same thing in utter confusion.
ReplyDeleteThanks for spotting that I have pressed the publish button on two separate occasions and it seemed to be stuck on draft. It should be there now.
ReplyDeleteMung, I absolutely love your work. Following your journey for a few years now and I'm always excited to see new content. If I can ask, what do you use for piping/conduit details/wiring? Styrene tube is hard for me to come by. Do you recommend anything else in a pinch?
ReplyDeleteI recommend single core electrical wiring, the type used in house wiring. It has a single thick core of copper with an outer layer of the usual PVC insulation. In the photos for the previous post (part5) all the red piping is single core wiring 2.75mm in diameter. Single core wire can be found in hardware stores, in a couple of different diameters and is quite economical in that you can get more than enough for several models for a few dollars. The single core allows it to be easily bent and stays bent unlike the multi strand wiring. I bend up the piping runs, place it in position and let a few drops of thin superglue run along using capillary action to secure it in place. To straighten it just hold one end in a vice and pull on the other end. For thicker pipe runs I use solid plastic rod. It can be bent using a heat gun around a scrap plywood former to achieve the angle of bend required. Tube is fine for straight runs but tends to collapse and fold in when attempting a bend even with a heat gun. A cheap source of solid acrylic rod can be found in charity shops as plastic knitting needles. The other source for rod and tube online is HobbyKing. They have ABS extrusions in long lengths very cheap. There is always Evergreen and Plastruct products but they work out to be very expensive, so I always look for cheaper alternatives. Fine pipe runs could be made with the wire with the insulation stripped off. Some people use brass rod and bend it into shape but it is also quite expensive these days.
ReplyDeleteOne other source of piping parts I forgot to mention is model kit sprue. I cut off the corners of the sprue where there is a nice 90 degree rounded bend, the rest I throw away as sprue on a model always looks like sprue. I usually use these where I just need a short right angle run but they can be added to a matching diameter rod for longer runs. The black piping on the Resilient model is sprue in this case from some Tamiya radio control car parts.
ReplyDelete